Words can have more than one meaning, so cool
camping may not mean what you think it does. But lets first take an example in
Tudaga, Kûdi, it can
mean dog or drum (falling tone), and with a slight change (rising tone) bed or
cloud. No doubt this can lead to confusion, but beating a dog in church would
not be a normal activity so I guess the context usually makes it clear. English
is less complicated, there are no tonal meanings that I am aware of, but words
such as ‘cool’ can all the same lead to confusion. Cool camping is a website that we have used in the UK, cool in the sense of special,
less frequented, beautiful and often simple. I guess a campsite in Bardai would probably fit the category quite
nicely. It could also have a difference
sense of the word ‘cool’ that is ‘chilly’
with night time outside temperature down as low as 2° C ( yes only just above freezing) since we have been here,
that would fit as well. Therefore camping might not seem to be such an
attractive idea, but I am not sure that it is a lot different from how we live.
So welcome to Cool Camping
Bardai, (in as many senses of the words as you choose to understand). It has
received ***** reviews for its spectacular
situation but rather less for its facilities. We are living in a simple breeze block house,
borrowed from a linguist couple who are out of the country for a few months. It
consists of a main room and a bedroom each of which have a small ( 30 X 30 cm) shuttered window. There
is a veranda and a separate kitchen. The roof, doors and windows are all made
of corrugated aluminium and there are no ceilings. It is fully equipped so we
only had to bring our personal items from Ndjamena with us, clothes, books,
household objects, some medical supplies and equipment, and dried food etc.. in 3 large metal trunks which now double as cupboard space.
The house we are living in at the moment |
Andrea unpacking our trunks just arrived from Ndjamena |
It has a reasonable sized yard with a small garden plot and we have some
tomatoes, aubergines, hot and sweet peppers plus some herbs growing. So far
only a handful of each but hopefully more with regular watering.
We are a 15 minute walk up a sandy road to the
hospital, it is like walking in snow in
that it takes more effort than normal. The
main street with its collection of lock up stores all of selling the same collection of tinned and dried food
is about 200m away.
Having spent our first night at Bardai it was rather chilly and so we decided to have breakfast outside, the air temperature rapidly rose and the sun felt warm. Next we organised the house, made book shelves in the lounge with large dried milk tins and planks. Then we put some postcards on the wall.
In addition to sponge mattresses on the concrete floor of the bedroom we have a large pop up mosquito net. Due to lack of water there are no mosquitoes, but scorpions are a real problem. A four seasons sleeping bag from the UK along with bedsocks and a rug, is enough to keep us warm.
The kitchen is also pretty simple, having a single kerosene stove supplemented by the solar cooker. There is no running water in the kitchen but the stand pipe in the yard has an intermittent town water supply, 4 hours every 2 days so we keep a couple of large 150l drums full. We wash our pots and clothes by hand and all the waste water gets poured onto the garden.
We have electricity from a solar panel on the roof and a single
large truck battery. The computer and phone can be charged by day and the 12v
fridge in the kitchen is amazingly efficient, but then again it is the cold
season. As I write this the light bulb has gone out, we usually have one on at
a time.
Finally the bathroom, always a selling point in a house, it has a fantastic view and the sun warms you by day. It is situated next to the garden, just behind the washing on the line in the picture above. Bucket showers with
solar heated water are very nice. The toilet, a simple pit latrine, is separate being just outside the wall and again it has a fantastic view of the
stars.
So as you can see living here really is rather like camping,
but that’s fine as that is something
that we have always enjoyed doing. Now that the weather is warming up it
is getting much easier, dressing for dinner no longer requires thermal
underwear, which is a nice change. Strange to think that in a couple of months time we will be sleeping
outside as it is too hot to be within
the walls of the house.
However we are not really camping and we are settling in to
our new routine, from the first week that we arrived we have had a 2 hour Teda
language lesson in the morning, followed
by private study. Also we have been helping out at
the cultural centre some afternoons a week and are spending a couple of afternoons working at the hospital mainly sorting out
and organising all the material. In between shopping, going for walks in the
hills, visiting neighbours and watching
a football match. Its a cool place to be!
Key: A : Hospital
B: Water Tower
C: Telephone Mast
D: Church
E: Mosque
F: Our home is somewhere in the date palms
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